I always wanted a 313 candy store register but they are not cheap. Picked this one up for a reasonable price and started working on it right away. Antique National Brass Cash Register 'numbers' for 442 & 400/500 Class NCR $42.95 New National Cash Register Key 1 2 & Reset 300/700 NCR 711 Metal Class (1).
A Brief History of NCR
Invented in 1880, Jack Ritty’s Incorruptible Cashier forever changed the way retail establishments would conduct everyday business. The first machines were sold not only for their functional ability, but also on their beauty – a fixture which every store owner would be proud to display in his establishment. The first cash registers were housed in elegant cabinets of polished wood. In 1888 ornate cases of brass and cast iron were produced. These fancy cases on cash registers ceased in 1915 due to demand for brass during World War I. Less expensive sheet metal versions were then produced and the era of the brass cash register ended after only 27 years.
Even though brass cash registers have not been manufactured since 1915, they were refurbished and sold as used registers for the next three decades. In some cases, they can even be found in use today. The quality of the mechanisms in these machines, as well as the timeless beauty of their ornate cases, make it easy to understand why these one-time common business machines have become such a sought-after and coveted antique.
Examples of early registers
Model Number
The model is the key to what your register is. The model number and serial number are usually located on a tag on the front of the machine. Before 1909, registers were either a one- or two-digit model number, for example, model 2, 50, 92. If your register is a push-key register and was made before 1909, the model number is usually located on an oval tag to the right of the register directly under the glass (it may say “size”). If your register has a crank on the right side, the model number is usually located on a badge between the push buttons. After 1909, National switched to a class system, and the model numbers changed. For example, a model 72 changed to a model 442 after 1909.
If your register was made after 1909, it is located on a plate dead center of your register directly under the glass. It should look like this:
The top number is your serial number. The bottom number is your model number. The top tag represents a model 572 that has an electric motor (EL) and has 9 drawers. So, this tag is for a floor model. The other letters you may find are:
Antique National Cash Register Parts
G – which is the kind of autographic printer that is on your register
L – Lights on your register
C – A fairly large register with more than one drawer that sits on a cabinet
F – A floor model register
If this tag is missing, the information might be found on a paper tag on the bottom of the cash drawer. Please refer to our parts section, we do have the capabilities to make tags. The bottom number is the model number. This model number is very important when trying to establish what kind of register you have.
Serial Number
The below table is a guide to tell you what year your National Cash Register was shipped from the factory. Registers were numbered sequentially, and not according to what model they were. The serial number is the above number on the tag on the front of your machine.
Year | Serial Number | Year | Serial Number |
| 1889 | 10,000 – 20,000 | 1903 | 310,000 – 370,000 |
| 1890 | 20,000 – 30,000 | 1904 | 370,000 – 430,000 |
| 1891 | 30,000 – 40,000 | 1905 | 430,000 – 490,000 |
| 1892 | 40,000 – 60,000 | 1906 | 490,000 – 550,000 |
| 1893 | 60,000 – 70,000 | 1907 | 550,000 – 610,000 |
| 1894 | 70,000 – 90,000 | 1908 | 610,000 – 690,000 |
| 1895 | 90,000 – 100,000 | 1909 | 690,000 – 800,000 |
| 1896 | 100,000 – 120,000 | 1910 | 800,000 – 940,000 |
| 1897 | 120,000 – 140,000 | 1911 | 940,000 – 1,080,000 |
| 1898 | 140,000 – 160,000 | 1912 | 1,080,000 – 1,220,000 |
| 1899 | 160,000 – 200,000 | 1913 | 1,220,000 – 1,370,000 |
| 1900 | 200,000 – 230,000 | 1914 | 1,370,000 – 1,470,000 |
| 1901 | 230,000 – 270,000 | 1913 | 1,220,000 – 1,370,000 |
| 1902 | 270,000 – 310,000 | 1914 | 1,370,000 – 1,470,000 |
If your register has a serial number that begins with an “S”, this means that at some point your register was sent back to the factory to either be repaired or resold. It may have endcaps that don’t have holes in them to accommodate a top sign. While it is impossible to tell when the register was originally sold from the factory, the S machines were numbered as follows:
| S-1 | January 1880 | S-1000 | April 1893 |
| S-3000 | September 1894 | S-5000 | August 1896 |
| S-7000 | February 1898 | S-9000 | April 1899 |
| S-11000 | February 1900 | S-13000 | October 1900 |
| S-15000 | July 1901 | S-17000 | February 1902 |
| S-19000 | September 1902 | S-21000 | May 1903 |
| S-23000 | November 1903 | S-25000 | April 1904 |
| S-27000 | July 1904 | S-29000 | January 1905 |
| S-31000 | July 1905 | S-33000 | December 1905 |
| S-35000 | March 1906 | S-37000 | June 1906 |
| S-39000 | October 1906 | S-41000 | December 1906 |
| S-43000 | March 1907 | S-45000 | May 1907 |
| S-47000 | July 1907 | S-49000 | September 1907 |
| S-51000 | October 1907 | S-53000 | December 1907 |
| S-55000 | February 1908 | S-57000 | May 1908 |
| S-59000 | August 1908 | S-61000 | October 1908 |
| S-63000 | January 1909 | S-65000 | March 1909 |
| S-67000 | May 1909 | S-69000 | September 1909 |
| S-71000 | December 1909 | S-73000 | May 1910 |
| S-75000 | November 1910 | S-77000 | June, 1911 |
| S-79000 | January 1912 | S-81000 | October 1912 |
| S-83000 | June 1913 | S-85000 | January 1914 |
| S-87000 | August 1914 | S-89000 | January 1915 |
| S-91000 | March 1915 |
Case Design
National cash registers were made in red brass, nickel plate, and copper oxidized. If your register looks to be in different colors of brass, this is because at some point somebody has stripped off the old nickel plate. If your register was originally nickel plate, then most likely your drawer front is solid nickel, because this is the piece of the register that was touched most often, and National put solid nickel drawer fronts on the register so the nickel plate wouldn’t wear off. It is highly unlikely that if your register is a nickel plated register, that it will be completely one color under the nickel plate. This is because when National was putting their registers together, when they got a batch from the foundry that was different colors, National nickel plated the register.
Antique National Cash Register Keys For Sale
When you think “keys” on an antique brass cash register, you are either thinking of the keys used to operate the register or the keys that unlock the locks on the register. On this page, we will attempt to explain both to you. If you have any further questions, please contact us.
Operating keys
There are three ways that antique cash registers were operated: push-key, crank, and operating button. So, here they are:
Push-Button Registers
This is very simple, right? You push a key, the flag pops up and the drawer opens. At least, this is what should happen. Please keep in mind that these are brass cash registers made with all cast iron insides. They are not computers. You need to firmly press the key down. Should the key get “stuck” halfway, you need to firmly grasp the key and see if you can complete the cycle. If you have the brass case off of the register, do NOT operate the register without the comb piece that keeps the keys in alignment.
If you cannot move the key at all, the register is either jammed or locked. Most likely, because the register has not been greased or oiled in over 100 years, it is “jammed”. You can take out the dust cover under the front lid and liberally spray the mechanism with WD-40. If this does not work, you can contact us and we can attempt to offer further assistance. Please refer to the locks section of this page for a description on if your register is locked.
Crank Registers
The easiest way to remember to operate a crank register is to push a key in each row, then operate the crank. To turn the crank, first push the crank away from you until it stops and then towards you. Most of the crank registers operate this way. If you don’t care to push a button in every row, you just need to make sure that if your register has a row of letters, that you push a button in that row. Some 500 class registers also require you to pinch the pinch lever on the left, and if desired slide the pinch lever up or down so the appropriate drawer will open.
Operating Button Registers
The 1000 class registers are operated differently yet. These registers were invented so that you could operate the register without using your hands. For instance, if you had a business where your hands were dirty most of the time, i.e., a restaurant or auto shop, you could push all of the buttons with your elbow. Again, you need to push a button in each row, then push the large silver operating button on the right side. If you don’t care to push a button in each row, just make sure you push a letter button on the left. This principle also applies to some Hallwood and American registers, which have a large round operating button rather than a large rectangle button on the right.
Locks
All of the locks on the brass cash registers have a number stamped into the brass right next to the lock. It may take a little bit of searching to find the number, but it is there. We have most of these keys available for sale. Here we will describe generally what each lock does on the registers. The description of the locks applies only to National Cash Registers.
Push-Button Registers
#1 lock – The #1 lock is located on the front curved lid of the register. This lock locks the lid, and prevents it from being lifted up.
#2 lock – The #2 lock is located on the left side of the register. This locks and unlocks the keys of the register and keeps the register from being operated. In the locked position, the keys cannot be depressed.
#3 lock – The #3 lock is also located on the left side of the register, and turns the bell on and off. This lock looks like a squiggle. It is also made of aluminum, and most of the time is broken and does not work. The HBAC Group recommends you do not mess with this lock, especially if the bell is working.
#5 lock – If your register has a printer on the right side of the register, the #5 lock is located next to the printer. This unlocks the printer door so it can be opened. While the printer mechanism works, however, you can no longer get the supplies to run the printer. The paper was a thick ticket-stock paper that was pushed through the register rather than pulled through the register. You can no longer get the paper, and today’s paper will jam the register.
Reset key – This lock is located under the front lid of the register next to the main dollar/cents counter. The key resets the counter back to zero. If you start to reset the counter back to zero, do not stop halfway, finish the cycle back to zero before you attempt to operate the register.
You may also notice a “keylock knob” under the front lid of the register. This knob only turns about 1/8 of a turn. In one position, you need to shut the drawer between transactions. In the other position, you can leave the drawer open between transactions.
Crank and Operating Button Registers
A lot of the keys are the same for these registers, so the description is the same.
#1 lock – The #1 lock is located above the crank on the right side of the register. This opens the window covers over the counters.
#2 lock – The #2 lock is located above the crank on the right side of the register. This locks your register.
#3 lock – Some of the crank registers have a #3 lock on the back of the register. This key itself is the same as the #1 lock for the push-key registers. This lock acts the same as the keylock knob does on the 300 class registers.
#2/3 lock – This is commonly called the split key. The lock is located directly under the key buttons. If this lock is on your register, it serves one of two functions: It either locks the register or this lock acts the same as the keylock knob does on the 300 class registers.
#4 lock – This lock is located in the drawer of the register, most commonly on the 1000 class registers.
#5 lock – Like the 300 class registers, this lock is located on the printer door and also on motor cover doors if your register has a motor cover.
#6 lock – This lock locks the flip lids on the front of the crank registers and the 1000 class registers. All this lock does is lock those lids down so the counter can’t be seen.
You may have other locks on your register. For example, if you have a register with more than one drawer and pinch bar on the left side, there may be locks at each drawer to lock the particular drawer. You may also have a lock on the back of the cabinet that locks the cabinet door shut. Please refer to our parts list for information on the pricing of the keys.